Barcelona - Portbou/Cerbere [R11 Rodalies]
cyclebike
Hi everyone

I'm currently in Morocco on a cycling trip and will be travelling back to the UK overland. I have a ferry booking from Nador to Barcelona...
RailUK Forums
Evening all

Thanks for your previous assistance, just thought I'd come back with a report on the trip (which probably means this now belongs in another section...)

A few days prior, I had notification from SNCF that the Cerbere - Paris Austerlitz night train was cancelled. It looked like the Cerbere line was closed afternoon of Sunday 11th December due to something related to a freight train. The train would still operate from Toulouse. So instead I planned to take Rodalies out of Barcelona to Latour de Carol, then a TER onwards to Toulouse, and pick up the Intercités de Nuit there.

After a pleasant ferry crossing on the GNV Atlas from Nador to Barcelona (during which the Morocco World Cup quarter-final match was shown, and we disembarked to gridlock in Barcelona seemingly caused by celebrating Morocco fans!), I stayed overnight in Barcelona. Morning of 11th, I decided to cycle the 10km or so to l'Hospitalet de Llobregat where the Latour de Carol train starts from. I took the 1124 departure which was comprised of two sets. Joining early turned out to be a good call as the train became standing room only from Sants all the way to Vic, would have been a right pain to get my overloaded touring bike and panniers on.

The Rodalies ready for departure at l'Hospitalet de Llobregat for Latour de Carol

On-board the Rodalies, bike stowed

Beyond Vic, the train was very lightly loaded so I could open up my picnic lunch from the Lidl bakery (to my surprise open in Barcelona on a Sunday). A long mainly single-track section headed up towards the Pyrenees with great views opening up.

Great views heading into the Pyrenees

Arriving around five minutes down at Latour de Carol, at 1456, I headed onto the platform to breathe in some cold Pyreneen air and take in the views. The double-set Regiolis train onwards to Toulouse was waiting in the adjacent platform with the doors released on the front set. I boarded and stowed everything ahead of the 1524 departure.

Also at the station was the Intercités de Nuit consist leaving later that evening for Paris. I would happily take this, but SNCF do not allow bikes to be booked on this portion. Sure enough, a couchette car including bike spaces was clearly visible in the consist!

The TER Regiolis for Toulouse ahead of starting its trip from Latour de Carol

On-board the Regiolis

I rather like these Regiolis trains, having previously used them on the "classic" line between Paris and Calais (via Boulogne and Amiens). This was a slightly older version but still comfortable, although the table supports restricted legroom a little on the window seats.

Darkness fell and we arrived in Toulouse on-time at 1814. A cold wind was blowing and I had 4.5 hours to kill before the Intercités de Nuit would depart at 2248. I rode off to a McDonald's (I'm sorry to report) to have some food and keep warm!

Back at the station, shortly after 2210 the platform was announced for the night journey to Paris-Austerlitz. I'd found a lift down to the subway but there didn't seem to be any lifts back up to the platforms, so I had to make two trips up the stairs - first with my luggage, then with the bike. No idea what happens if you're disabled! After a ticket check, I was sent to coach 17 (although my booking was for coach 7) - for some reason all the coaches seem to be numbered 10 too high and were in the process of being renumbered... Possibly something to do with the Cerbere portion not running that night? This turned out to be a refurbished couchette car (some in the consist were unrefurbished), with bike racks and tidier-looking berths, and more modern loos too (although they still seemed to be locked out of use until departure, so possibly still not retention toilets?).

Leading the line on the Intercités de Nuit from Toulouse to Paris

My refurbished berth on-board

Bike stowed

I always prefer a lower berth, shoving my bags on the floor under the bunk. Not really a problem on this journey as only one other person in the six-berth compartment, on the top bunk. Power sockets have been fitted during the refurbishment, but these have a too-bright red light surrounding them (always lit), a bit annoyingly like the Caledonian Sleeper berth control panels. I had a comfortable night using the provided "sleeping bag."

I was up prompt in the morning, arrival scheduled for 0719 although an announcement said we were around 15 down. I used the time to squeeze forward to coach 2, where breakfast was apparently available, although this turned out to be a cup of instant coffee (for €2) and the additional possibility of a packet of biscuits which I declined! I needed to be riding away from Austerlitz as soon as possible. My booked direct TER from Paris to Calais was being terminated early at Boulogne due to engineering works, so I wouldn't get to Calais in time for the ferry back. Instead I'd come up with a convoluted route now involving three trains, first to Amiens, then Arras, and finally on to Calais-Ville. Such is the unfortunate routine of trying to use French trains with a bike! The first connection left Gare du Nord at 0804 which seemed a tough ask as we only pulled in to Austerlitz around 0734... Despite the cold weather I built up a sweat riding through the dark streets of Paris and made Gare du Nord just after 0800. The Amiens train was still advertised, and I made it - to my surprise a former Intercités loco-hauled consist, fortunately with the bike compartment at the very rear! The train ended up leaving a few minutes late, but having made this one the rest of my schedule should be attainable...

In Amiens, I had time to brave the freezing streets to find a bakery and get a few pastries for breakfast, before heading back to the station for the 1050 departure to Arras. This comprised double-deck commuter stock. This was the only time my ticket was checked between Paris and Calais (not even any barriers at any of the four stations!). As it was a bargain €10 advance for the (supposed) direct Paris-Calais train, I expected an issue, but the inspector just scanned it, thanked me, and moved on...

In Arras, I awaited the 1215 departure to Calais-Ville, which had me arriving there at 1418. This was a pleasant journey with many stops at small shacks. The sun came out on the way and I was surprised at the large bike area on this TER with six hooks, not even "shared" with tip-up seats. I know hooks aren't ideal but these European varieties seem to accept the tyre a lot easier than the UK ones for example on the class 80x!

The TER awaiting departure from Arras for Calais

On-board the TER for Calais

Arriving in Calais, I rode the few km to the Calais Port which has had a sizable extension with the check-in area now in a different location. Quick progress through and I was awaiting departure for Dover.

Back in the UK, I had (more through chance than good planning) arrived back on the last evening before the strikes starting on 13th. Snow had caused Southeastern significant disruption but I arrived at Dover Priory just as the 1718 London Victoria train was turning around. I hopped on-board - all other trains were showing cancelled/delayed, and we had a smooth journey to London although losing around 25 minutes en-route.

Final ride across to London Waterloo station to hop on a Weymouth train for the final leg (this was all running to time!).

Evening all

Thanks for your previous assistance, just thought I'd come back with a report on the trip (which probably means this now belongs in another section...)

A few days prior, I had notification from SNCF that the Cerbere - Paris Austerlitz night train was cancelled. It looked like the Cerbere line was closed afternoon of Sunday 11th December due to something related to a freight train. The train would still operate from Toulouse. So instead I planned to take Rodalies out of Barcelona to Latour de Carol, then a TER onwards to Toulouse, and pick up the Intercités de Nuit there.

After a pleasant ferry crossing on the GNV Atlas from Nador to Barcelona (during which the Morocco World Cup quarter-final match was shown, and we disembarked to gridlock in Barcelona seemingly caused by celebrating Morocco fans!), I stayed overnight in Barcelona. Morning of 11th, I decided to cycle the 10km or so to l'Hospitalet de Llobregat where the Latour de Carol train starts from. I took the 1124 departure which was comprised of two sets. Joining early turned out to be a good call as the train became standing room only from Sants all the way to Vic, would have been a right pain to get my overloaded touring bike and panniers on.

View attachment 125219

The Rodalies ready for departure at l'Hospitalet de Llobregat for Latour de Carol

View attachment 125220

On-board the Rodalies, bike stowed

Beyond Vic, the train was very lightly loaded so I could open up my picnic lunch from the Lidl bakery (to my surprise open in Barcelona on a Sunday). A long mainly single-track section headed up towards the Pyrenees with great views opening up.

View attachment 125221

Great views heading into the Pyrenees

Arriving around five minutes down at Latour de Carol, at 1456, I headed onto the platform to breathe in some cold Pyreneen air and take in the views. The double-set Regiolis train onwards to Toulouse was waiting in the adjacent platform with the doors released on the front set. I boarded and stowed everything ahead of the 1524 departure.

Also at the station was the Intercités de Nuit consist leaving later that evening for Paris. I would happily take this, but SNCF do not allow bikes to be booked on this portion. Sure enough, a couchette car including bike spaces was clearly visible in the consist!

View attachment 125222

The TER Regiolis for Toulouse ahead of starting its trip from Latour de Carol

View attachment 125223

On-board the Regiolis

I rather like these Regiolis trains, having previously used them on the "classic" line between Paris and Calais (via Boulogne and Amiens). This was a slightly older version but still comfortable, although the table supports restricted legroom a little on the window seats.

Darkness fell and we arrived in Toulouse on-time at 1814. A cold wind was blowing and I had 4.5 hours to kill before the Intercités de Nuit would depart at 2248. I rode off to a McDonald's (I'm sorry to report) to have some food and keep warm!

Back at the station, shortly after 2210 the platform was announced for the night journey to Paris-Austerlitz. I'd found a lift down to the subway but there didn't seem to be any lifts back up to the platforms, so I had to make two trips up the stairs - first with my luggage, then with the bike. No idea what happens if you're disabled! After a ticket check, I was sent to coach 17 (although my booking was for coach 7) - for some reason all the coaches seem to be numbered 10 too high and were in the process of being renumbered... Possibly something to do with the Cerbere portion not running that night? This turned out to be a refurbished couchette car (some in the consist were unrefurbished), with bike racks and tidier-looking berths, and more modern loos too (although they still seemed to be locked out of use until departure, so possibly still not retention toilets?).

View attachment 125234

Leading the line on the Intercités de Nuit from Toulouse to Paris

View attachment 125235

My refurbished berth on-board

View attachment 125236

Bike stowed

I always prefer a lower berth, shoving my bags on the floor under the bunk. Not really a problem on this journey as only one other person in the six-berth compartment, on the top bunk. Power sockets have been fitted during the refurbishment, but these have a too-bright red light surrounding them (always lit), a bit annoyingly like the Caledonian Sleeper berth control panels. I had a comfortable night using the provided "sleeping bag."

I was up prompt in the morning, arrival scheduled for 0719 although an announcement said we were around 15 down. I used the time to squeeze forward to coach 2, where breakfast was apparently available, although this turned out to be a cup of instant coffee (for €2) and the additional possibility of a packet of biscuits which I declined! I needed to be riding away from Austerlitz as soon as possible. My booked direct TER from Paris to Calais was being terminated early at Boulogne due to engineering works, so I wouldn't get to Calais in time for the ferry back. Instead I'd come up with a convoluted route now involving three trains, first to Amiens, then Arras, and finally on to Calais-Ville. Such is the unfortunate routine of trying to use French trains with a bike! The first connection left Gare du Nord at 0804 which seemed a tough ask as we only pulled in to Austerlitz around 0734... Despite the cold weather I built up a sweat riding through the dark streets of Paris and made Gare du Nord just after 0800. The Amiens train was still advertised, and I made it - to my surprise a former Intercités loco-hauled consist, fortunately with the bike compartment at the very rear! The train ended up leaving a few minutes late, but having made this one the rest of my schedule should be attainable...

In Amiens, I had time to brave the freezing streets to find a bakery and get a few pastries for breakfast, before heading back to the station for the 1050 departure to Arras. This comprised double-deck commuter stock. This was the only time my ticket was checked between Paris and Calais (not even any barriers at any of the four stations!). As it was a bargain €10 advance for the (supposed) direct Paris-Calais train, I expected an issue, but the inspector just scanned it, thanked me, and moved on...

In Arras, I awaited the 1215 departure to Calais-Ville, which had me arriving there at 1418. This was a pleasant journey with many stops at small shacks. The sun came out on the way and I was surprised at the large bike area on this TER with six hooks, not even "shared" with tip-up seats. I know hooks aren't ideal but these European varieties seem to accept the tyre a lot easier than the UK ones for example on the class 80x!

View attachment 125243

The TER awaiting departure from Arras for Calais

View attachment 125244

On-board the TER for Calais

Arriving in Calais, I rode the few km to the Calais Port which has had a sizable extension with the check-in area now in a different location. Quick progress through and I was awaiting departure for Dover.

Back in the UK, I had (more through chance than good planning) arrived back on the last evening before the strikes starting on 13th. Snow had caused Southeastern significant disruption but I arrived at Dover Priory just as the 1718 London Victoria train was turning around. I hopped on-board - all other trains were showing cancelled/delayed, and we had a smooth journey to London although losing around 25 minutes en-route.

Final ride across to London Waterloo station to hop on a Weymouth train for the final leg (this was all running to time!).

Bravo!