Guide to Portbou
David
Portbou is the last town on the Costa Brava before the French border. But despite its huge station the town is relatively unknown as a tourist resort.
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Dominated by the railway station, Portbou is where the Costa Brava borders with France in the north.

As the town closest to the French border on the Costa Brava, Portbou is dominated by the huge railway station that once provided customs and immigration facilities prior to Europe’s borders opening up. It was also one of the few Republican supply routes from abroad during the Spanish Civil War.

The town, set among the Pyrenean foothills, connects with France via a winding seven kilometre route but two rail tunnels provide more direct access. One of these is standard gauge, while the other is the wider Iberian gauge. This allows Spanish trains to terminate on the other side of the border in Cerbère while French trains can terminate in Portbou.

The natural beauty of Portbou’s surroundings sets it apart from many other Costa Brava destinations. The town sits between the Pyrenees Mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, affording visitors spectacular vistas of both. Compared to busier tourist hubs, Portbou’s beaches are far less crowded and more tranquil. It’s the perfect place for those seeking respite from the frenzied pace of larger towns.

Accommodation options are limited though, with a handful of hotels and guesthouses. The the bulk of holiday properties are privately owned. There is no campsite in the although the town does have a basic facilities for motorhomes in the port.

For those seeking adventure, Portbou offers many exciting water sports such as scuba diving, kayaking, and paddle boarding. Additionally, there are many cultural and historical attractions to explore, including the Walter Benjamin Memorial, a homage to the German philosopher who died in the town during World War II.

Beaches

You’ll find all the usual facilities on the pebble beach that runs along the promenade. It’s around 200 metres long with the port to the south. To the north are a number of other beaches and coves and its easy to get to if you’re staying in Portbou.

Walking north from Portbou you’ll reach the area known as Les Tres Platgetes – the three little beaches – after about fifteen minutes. Around here are a number of caves to explore. When you arrive you’ll find one main bay flanked by two smaller coves. Here is a pebble beach of around 100 metres but it lacks the facilities of the main beach. Whether that is good or bad depends on your point of view, but it tends to be quieter than the main beach. It is also sheltered from the northerly tramuntana wind, a huge advantage here.

If you continue walking you’ll get to the Platja del Pi, the Costa Brava’s most northerly beach that is accessible on foot. This 40 metre pebble beach lacks facilities but makes up for it with its tranquillity. It’s also popular with nudists. There are few of the pine trees still remaining that lend the beach its name but you’ll find the so-called pirate’s cave.

Also worth mentioning are Cala de les Fresses, a cove accessible by boat between Portbou and the border. And on the far side of the harbour area you can walk to Cala del Claper. Both are rather rocky but also more secluded than the other beaches mentioned.

All in all, Portbou offers a diverse range of beaches and coves that cater to various preferences. Portbou ensures that every beachgoer can find their ideal spot along the beautiful Costa Brava coastline.

Where to stay

The majority of holiday accommodation in Portbou is comprised of apartments and villas. Apartments are a great option for those looking for more budget-friendly accommodation, and many are conveniently located close to the beach and town centre, while villas offer more privacy and space, and some even come with their own private pools.

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Hotel la Masia (Passeig de la Sardana, 1) is located right on the beachfront. The hotel offers double, single, and family rooms with private bathrooms, air conditioning, a safe, and satellite TV and some have balconies. Guests can also dine at the hotel’s restaurant, which specialises in in local seafood and Catalan delicacies.

Another hotel option is Hotel Comodoro (Carrer Mendez Nuñez, 1), traditional 1-star establishment that excels in comfort and quality of service. It exudes old-fashioned charm and offers a range of rooms with private or shared bathrooms, catering to families – the hotel even provides complimentary beach towels and parasols.

While there is a site for parking motorhomes down near the port, it is only available for two nights and in the off season. The nearest campsite is at Colera, or over the border near Cerbère in France.

Eating in and eating out

Portbou has a good choice of restaurants for its size, with a number of eateries clustered on the seafront. One of these is the highly regarded Voramar (Passeig de la Sardana, 6), which offers a mix of traditional and contemporary cooking based on their three fundamental ingredients: technique, patience and thoroughness.

Another great option is Bar Restaurant Riky (Passeig de la Sardana, 9), which offers tapas as well as specialising in Catalan cuisine and the an excellent paella. It has great views out to sea too. Note that many restaurants here only open during the short summer season though and so if you’re visiting in September you’ll find less choice but nearby towns like Colera and Llançà also offer more variety.

While most restaurants tend to be child friendly, El Racó de la Mar (Carrer de l’Escultor Frederic Marès, 2) is particularly recommended as it has a play area. The food and service are great too, with offer tapas, toasted sandwiches, local specialities and grilled meats. It’s simple but well done.

In terms of self-catering options, there are several small grocery stores in Portbou where you can stock up on essentials like bread, milk, and eggs. There is also a daily covered municipal market (Passeig d’Enric Granados) every morning but Sunday offering a variety of food products, and a weekly fruit and veg market every Tuesday morning just outside on the street.

However, for a larger grocery shop, visitors may want to venture to nearby Llançà or even cross the border into France. There are also several small specialty food shops in Portbou selling local products like wine, cheese, and cured meats. Overall, while Portbou may not have a large supermarket, visitors should have no trouble finding everything they need for a self-catering stay.

What to see and do

While the beach is undoubtedly a major draw, there are plenty of other activities to keep visitors entertained.

One popular activity in Portbou is hiking. The town is surrounded by stunning natural scenery, and there are several hiking trails in the area, ranging from easy coastal walks to more challenging mountain hikes. One option is to follow the route taken by Walter Benjamin (below) across the Pyrenees. Starting in the French town of Banyls-sur-Mer, the path cross the border at Coll de Rumpissar and continues to Portbou.

For water sports enthusiasts, Portbou offers plenty of options. Visitors can try their hand at paddle boarding, kayaking, windsurfing or sailing. The town’s port has 297 moorings.

In terms of sites to see, one of the most important is the Portbou Cemetery, where the philosopher Walter Benjamin is buried. The cemetery offers stunning views of the sea and is a peaceful and reflective spot. There is also a 1994 memorial to Walter Benjamin by Israeli artist Dani Karavan. The memorial is seen as a tribute not only to Benjamin, but also to the many other refugees who have sought safety and freedom in Portbou over the years.

Walter Benjamin

Walter Benjamin was a German philosopher, cultural critic, and essayist who is considered one of the most important thinkers of the 20th century. Born in Berlin in 1892, Benjamin studied philosophy and literature in Germany and Switzerland, and later worked as a literary critic and translator.

Benjamin’s work covered a wide range of topics, including art, history, and politics, and his ideas had a profound impact on critical theory and cultural studies. He is best known for his essays on the relationship between art and politics, and for his concept of the “aura” of art, which he believed was diminished by the mass reproduction of images.

Tragically, Benjamin’s life was cut short when he died by suicide in 1940 after arriving in Portbou while attempting to flee Nazi-occupied France. Upon arrival the mayor told him he would be handed over to the Gestapo the following day.

For history buffs, a visit to the town’s 19th-century Santa Maria de Portbou church is a must. The church features beautiful neo-gothic architecture.

Other points of interest are the stone drinking fountain in Plaça Major, which is decorated with the town’s coat of arms. There is another, Font dels Ninots, at the top of the steps on Carrer del Mercat, right next to the station. Dating from 1922, the fountain is in the noucentista style and is decorated with a sculpture of three children on top.

The station is also worth visiting. Dating back to 1878, it dominates the town, which remains an important hub for regional, long-distance, and international train services. Over the years, it has undergone various updates, including the construction of a large glass and steel canopy covering the platforms.

If prehistoric history is more your thing then you’ll want to find the Dolmen del Coll de la Farella. It lies in the hills outside the town, right on the border with France. The megalithic tomb consists of a trapezoidal chamber, similar to other dolmens found in the eastern Pyrenees.

How to get to Portbou

Overall, Portbou is easy to reach by both car and public transport, making it a convenient destination for visitors to the Costa Brava. The town is about two and a quarter hours by road from Barcelona airport, or around 75 minutes from Girona. Head north on the AP-7 until you reach exit 4, direction Roses. Here you should follow the N-II until you pass Vilatenim then join the N-260 in the direction of Peralada/Llançà/Portbou.

The train is obviously also a good option. It takes about an hour from Girona station and double that from Barcelona Sants, with services running throughout the day. As you approach Portbou you are afforded some stunning views of the coastline.

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